klatring

Climbing

Store Skagastølstind

Storen is Norway’s third highest mountain and the highest mountain that requires rope climbing to come to the top. Until the first ascent in 1876 by the Englishman William Cecil Slings by the mountain had been thought to be unclimbable. The route we use today is not technically difficult, but it is exposed and at times very airy. To be able to reach the top you have to be in good physical shape in order to complete the 12-15 hours trip and 1600 height difference.

The biggest challenge for many is the height and the mental challenge that goes with having to dangle 600 meters over the Slingsby glacier. You must also be aware of the fact that you are exposed to the danger of rock falls on this trip. This means that you too must keep a watch full eye for any loose stones you may come across so as not to create any rockslides of your own that may put other climbers below you in danger. If you have doubts about the climb or indeed have no climbing experience whatsoever we strongly recommend that you use a guide.

The trip starts from Turtagrø and takes the usual route in towards Skagadalen and up to Hytta på bandet (1758masl). This ascent of over 800 meters takes about three hours to complete. From here the terrain begins to steepen and there are a few parts that you need to climb to reach Hjørnet (The Corner). There is a slab which you can rest on here and where you must secure yourself with rope. From Hjørnet up are the sides very steep and you have to climb the rest of the way to the top. The first passage is known as Galleriet (the Gallery) which continues on to a shelf. From here there are two alternative routes to choose from; Vigdals Sva or Heftyes Renne. From here up there are 10 meters of grade 3-4 climbing. After this the way to the top is simple. There are many routes up to the summit of Storen however these two routes here are the most commonly used. On the ruturn there is a 40 meter rappel north west for the route you used on the way up that took you just by Hjørnet. From here it is just back the same way to Turtagrø. You should normally use between 12 and 15 hours for the round trip.

Climbing

Store Skagastølstind

Storen is Norway’s third highest mountain and the highest mountain that requires rope climbing to come to the top. Until the first ascent in 1876 by the Englishman William Cecil Slings by the mountain had been thought to be unclimable. The route we use today is not technically difficult, but it is exposed and at times very airy. To be able to reach the top you have to be in good physical shape in order to complete the 12-15 hours trip and 1600 height difference.

The biggest challenge for many is the height and the mental challenge that goes with having to dangle 600 meters over the Slingsby glacier. You must also be aware of the fact that you are exposed to the danger of rock falls on this trip. This means that you too must keep a watch full eye for any loose stones you may come across so as not to create any rockslides of your own that may put other climbers below you in danger. If you have doubts about the climb or indeed have no climbing experience whatsoever we strongly recommend that you use a guide.

The trip starts from Turtagrø and takes the usual route in towards Skagadalen and up to Hytta på bandet (1758masl). This ascent of over 800 meters takes about three hours to complete. From here the terrain begins to steepen and there are a few parts that you need to climb to reach Hjørnet (The Corner). There is a slab which you can rest on here and where you must secure yourself with rope. From Hjørnet up are the sides very steep and you have to climb the rest of the way to the top. The first passage is known as Galleriet (the Gallery) which continues on to a shelf. From here there are two alternative routes to choose from; Vigdals Sva or Heftyes Renne. From here up there are 10 meters of grade 3-4 climbing. After this the way to the top is simple. There are many routes up to the summit of Storen however these two routes here are the most commonly used. On the ruturn there is a 40 meter rappel north west for the route you used on the way up that took you just by Hjørnet. From here it is just back the same way to Turtagrø. You should normally use between 12 and 15 hours for the round trip.

Information

Duration:
12 – 15 hours

Height:
884 – 2405 masl

Map

Best map is Hurrungane 1: 25 000. The map can be purchased at the reception at Turtagrø.

English